Some of Lombok’s most spectacular coastal scenery can be found on the southern shores of the island. To get there is a journey through time, a harmonious integration of legend, tradition and reverence to God, where shirtless old men in checked sarongs still eke out a living from the sea or the dry farmland. Lime-green banana palms, with leaves like tattered banners, border fields of cassava, corn, tobacco, and red hot chilli peppers. Tiny rural villages of simple bamboo houses with grass roofs hide within the coconut groves, and scarred dogs patrol the roadside warungs. Windswept sandy beaches and crescent or bite-shaped bays are secluded and beyond beautiful with sand reminiscent of soft white sugar, complete with coconut palms and fishing boats. Separated by headlands and curious rocky outcrops, these glorious beaches are famous for their surf breaks, yet when the tide is out, the bays turn into shallow pools of turquoise water.
Along a rutted road to the east of Kuta, a picturesque little village lies on the fringe of Selong Belanak Beach. Instead of detracting from the beauty of the sweeping curve of the bay, the village adds to its charm. Colourful outriggers rock in the gentle waves; the villagers make their living from fishing, especially for squid. Powdery white silica sand skirts the crystal waters of the gorgeous beach. With its gentle rolling beach break and sand bottom, the conditions here are perfect for learning to surf.
What makes this place so stunning, however, is the scale of the surrounding landscape – which is of continental proportions. The assets have, of course, not gone unnoticed. This is one of Lombok’s most prized gems and it is no surprise that the cost of real estate here is rising rapidly.
Fishing is the lifeblood of the small seaside community that lives here. The coral reefs team with fish and large pelagic are known to congregate around the nutrient rich waters. Getting out on the sea is a simple matter of chartering a fishing boat from one of the local fishermen. The area also offers a privileged insight in the daily lives of the local people. You can observe the farmers planting and harvesting tobacco and rice in the fields that extend behind the beach to the base of the hills; or watch the fishermen fixing their boats while their wives prepare barbequed corn on the cob and fish satay created from the catch of the day and served up in the tiny warungs.
Accommodation in the area includes Sempiak Villas and Villa Atas, perched atop Sempiak Hill, which presides over the beach with breathtaking views of the coastline. Below, on the flat, is a cafe called Laut Biru (blue sea), offering a gourmet selection of Asian and Western dishes including some wicked desserts. A small beach club – open to diners at the restaurant – is situated at the water’s edge within the shade of the sea hibiscus trees, complete with hammocks and deck chairs and attendants on call to serve refreshing cold drinks.
On a final note, if you hang around Selong Belanak Beach for long enough, you might just be treated to the magnificent sight of a large herd of buffaloes being ushered along the sand from one grazing ground to another by a waywardness of nomadic-looking Sasak cowboys. Welcome to everyday rural life beside the sea. This is one very special ‘Kodak Moment’ that you will never forget.
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